Holidays at La Fare (recipes!)/ Vianoce na La Fare

Vianoce na La Fare sú znôškou všakovakých zvykov - slovenských, provensálskych i nemeckých. Pálime vianočné poleno, hlavný cukrár, alias manžel, pripravuje Buche de Noel, oslavuje sa zimný slnovrat, Yule, Vianoce, príchod svetla, jednoducho, dôvod na oslavu sa vždy nájde. Rozvoniava tu varené víno, na stole je kapustnica i morka, trinásť provensálskych dezertov, a vždy je tu veľa kriku a veľa jedla.

Oslavovať sa začína hneď po Halloweene (Samhain), keď deti vytiahnu zaprášené škatule s vianočnými ozdobami, a za hundrania môjho manžela vyvesujú po celom dome tie najnevkusnejšie ozdoby z dna krabice ako prvé. Ja s nadšením hltám všetky vianočné vydania Marie Claire, a po lese zásadne chodím so záhradníckymi nožnicami ako vystrihnutá z filmu Vianočné prázdniny z roku 89. Dom je vyvoňaný všetkým, čo len trochu pripomína Vianoce, a každý piatkový večer tu rozvoniava varené víno pri stopäťdesiatom opakovaní filmu The Holiday.

20. decembra večer, v predvečer zimného slnovratu, háďžeme do kozuba vianočné poleno. Pije sa Wassail - dávny nápoj z jablčného muštu, korenín a cranberry džúsu.

Ja som Mikuláš, Ježiško a vianočný škriatok v jednej osobe, manžel Krampus. Ten totiž Vianoce nemá v láske (traumatické udalosti spojené s kaprom plávajúcim vo vani tri dni bez možnosti sa osprchovať).

Opuletná večera, pozostávajúca z kapustnice, kačacej paštéty, morky a vianočného polena, je znôškou rôznych zvykov. Keďže sa nám za celé roky nepodarilo presvedčiť najstaršiu dcéru, aby sa nadchla pre zemiakový šalát a rybu, zmenili sme menu. Máme trinásť provensálskych dezertov (kombinácia rôznych druhov sušeného ovocia, plneného marcipánom, koláčikov calissons a provensálsky nugát), vianočné poleno, alias Buche de Noel a medovníky.

Podávať trinásť dezertov je starou vianočnou tradíciou v Provensálsku. Podávajú sa po štedrovečernej večeri a číslo 13 tradične predstavuje Ježiša a jeho dvanástich apoštolov. Každý hosť musí zjesť všetkých trinásť, aby si zaručil šťastie v nasledujúcom roku.

• Amandes (mandle) sú jedným zo „štyroch žobrákov“ reprezentujúcich mníšsky rád karmelitánov

• Figues Séchées (Sušené figy) sú ďalšou zo „Štyroch žobrákov“ a predstavujú mníšsky rád františkánov.

• Raisins Secs (Raisins) sú tiež súčasťou „Štyroch žobrákov“ a predstavujú mníšsky rád dominikánov.

• Noix ou Noisettes (vlašské alebo lieskové orechy) sú poslednými zo „štyroch žobrákov“ a predstavujú mníšsky rád Augustínov.

• Nougat Blanc (Biely nugát) predstavuje dobro a zimný slnovrat, dlhé svetlé dni...

• Nougat Noir (Čierny nugát) ... predstavuje dlhých temných dní, reprezentovaných čiernym nugátom, ktorý tiež ilustruje zlo

• Calissons (Calissons) sú mandľové a melónové cukríky z Aix-en-Provence

• Fruit Frais (čerstvé ovocie) môžu byť pomaranče, hrušky, jablká alebo klementínky z Korziky

• Pâte de Coing (pasta z dulí)

• Dattes (datle) symbolizujú príchod Krista z Blízkeho východu. Niektorí ľudia hovoria, že na kôstkach musíte nájsť písmeno „o“, čo je zrejme to, čo Mária alebo Ježiško zvolali pri pohľade na ovocie.

• Chocolat (Čokoláda) sa pridáva v závislosti od regiónu. Radi máme čokoládové olivy, čo sú mandle v čokoláde v tvare olív!

• Pâtes de Fruits (Kandizované ovocie)

• Navettes sú sušienky s príchuťou pomarančových kvetov, ktoré pochádzajú z regiónu Marseille

• Pompe à l’Huile je sladký chlieb vyrobený z olivového oleja s príchuťou pomarančových kvetov. Tvrdí sa, že recept je starý ako mesto Marseille. Trhajte ju, na znak poslednej večera (nikdy nekrájajte nožom).

Po večeri sa vybaľujú darčeky za častých ooooo a wooow a potom popíjame, jeme, jedoducho, ako sa na sviatky patrí.

Krásne Vianoce, Yule, alebo čokoľvek oslavujete!

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Holidays at La Fare is a combination of different customs - Slovak, Provençal, ancient and German. We burn the Christmas log, the chef a.k.a the husband, prepares the 'Buche de Noel', we celebrate the Winter Solstice, Yule, Christmas, the coming of light, simply, there is always a reason to celebrate. There is the smell of mulled wine, traditional cabbage soup and turkey on the table, thirteen Provençal desserts, and there is always a lot of shouting and a lot of food.

The celebration starts right after Halloween (Samhain) when the kids pull out the dusty boxes of Christmas decorations and, despite my husband's unpleasant whining, they hang the most kitch decorations from the bottom of the box around the house. I devour all the Marie Claire Christmas issues to find inspiration, and I walk around the woods with pruning shears like in the movie Christmas Vacation. The house is scented with 'Christmas Spirit"essential oil blend, and every Friday night there's mulled wine and Christmas movies on repeat.

On the evening of December 20, on the eve of the Winter Solstice, we light a Christmas log in the wood stove. We drink Wassail - an ancient drink made of apple cider, spices and cranberry juice.

I am Nicholas, Santa Claus and Christmas Elf in one person, the husband of Krampus. Because he doesn't like Christmas (traumatic events connected with a carp swimming in a bathtub for three days without the possibility of taking a shower).

Dinner, consisting of traditional cabbage soup, homemade pate, turkey and a log cake, is a combination of different customs. After years of not being able to get our oldest daughter to get excited about potato salad and fish, we changed the menu. We have thirteen Provençal desserts (a combination of different types of dried fruit, filled with marzipan, calissons and Provençal nougat), a Christmas log, aka Buche de Noel, and gingerbread. Sometimes we also add pudding and a raw cake.

Thirteen Provencal Desserts

“Les treize desserts” is an old Christmas tradition in Provence. Thirteen desserts are enjoyed after Christmas Eve dinner, traditionally representing Jesus and his twelve Apostles.

Each guest must eat all thirteen in order to guarantee good luck for the year to come.

• Amandes (Almonds) are one of the “Four Beggars” representing the monastic order of the Carmelites

• Figues Séchées (Dried Figs) are another of the “Four Beggars” and represent the monastic order of the Franciscans.

• Raisins Secs (Raisins) are also part of the “Four Beggars” and represent the Dominicans monastic order

• Noix ou Noisettes (Walnuts or Hazelnuts) are the last of the “Four Beggars” and represent the Augustines monastic order

• Nougat Blanc (White Nougat) represents Good and the Winter Solstice, the long bright days…

• Nougat Noir (Black Nougat) … to the long dark days, represented by the black nougat, which also illustrates evil

• Calissons (Calissons) are an almond and melon candy from Aix-en-Provence, very sweet and delicious

• Fruit Frais (Fresh Fruits) can be oranges, pears, apples or clementines from Corsica (our favourite choice!)

• Pâte de Coing (Quince Paste) is a must on the treize desserts table in our region, as our village of Cotignac is known for its quinces

• Dattes (Dates) symbolise the arrival of the Christ from the Middle East. Some people say you must find the letter ‘o’ on the pits, which is apparently what Mary or Baby Jesus exclaimed at the sight of the fruit

• Chocolat (Chocolate) is added depending on the region. We like to have chocolate olives, which are chocolate coated almonds shaped like olives!

• Fruit Confits/Pâtes de Fruits (Candied Fruits/Fruit Pastes) are a great addition on top of the calisson and quince paste

• Navettes are orange blossom flavoured biscuits found in the Marseille region

• Pompe à l’Huile are a famous sweet bread made with olive oil and orange blossom. It is claimed to be as old as the city of Marseille. And should be broken to illustrate the last supper (never cut with a knife).

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After dinner, presents are unwrapped with frequent ooooos and wooows, and then we drink, eat, and eat, as befits the holidays.

Merry Christmas, Yule, or whatever you celebrate!

RECIPES

Gluten free Panettone

There are many legends as to the origins of panettone, a sweet bread that is enjoyed during the Christmas and New Year’s holidays in Italy. Traditionally, it is made from a sourdough starter and rises at least three times. Often it is in the shape of the cupola at the top of a church with a tall base and fluffy top. It shouldn't come as a surprise that this rich fruit cake is also sold in Provence during the holiday season. It was the Romans who made the region the first Roman province beyond the Alps and called it Provincia Romana, which evolved into the present name. While Provence has been part of France for more than five hundred years, it still retains a distinct cultural and linguistic identity and many native to the region strictly distinguish themselves from "the snooty Parisians"

Gluten Free Sourdough Panettone

600g Gluten Free Flour Mix (make your own: combine 200 grams millet flour, 200 grams rice flour, 200 grams tapioca flour and 1,5 tbsp xanthan gum)

4 tbsp gluten free sourdough starter

50g sugar

100ml Almond milk

5 eggs

200g butter

200g dried mixed fruit

100g candied peel, finely chopped

2tbsp brandy or rum

1 tsp of salt

How to:

1. Place the flour mix, sugar and sourdough starter into the food processor and process briefly to mix.

2. Add the butter and process until it is crumbly.

3. Pour in the eggs and process until it forms a stiff batter

4. Add the dried fruit, candied peel and brandy and pulse briefly to mix.

5. Tip the mixture into a large glass bowl. Cover with cling film and leave to prove for a couple of hours. The dough should be bubbly.

6. Lightly grease a panettone cake tin with butter.

7. Spoon the cake mixture into the tin and smooth the surface. Cover with clingfilm and leave to prove for another hour.

8. When ready to cook preheat the oven to 220C. Brush the top of the cake with beaten egg and bake for 10 minutes, then lower to 180 and bake for another 30 minutes or until it is cooked through.

9. Cool in the tin for 5 minutes before turning out and cooling on a wire rack.

My home country is well known for homemade embellished gingerbread cookies called 'medovniky' ('med' stands for honey) made always before Christmas. Gingerbread, known as 'libum', were baked already in ancient Rome and in the 15th century, the tradition spread throughout Europe. In Slovakia, my home-country, some wooden forms used for gingerbread baking are 200 years old and mostly featured Saints as St.Nicholas and common objects. Although my family has been using wheat flour as a base for decades, I use spelt flour in the recipe. These cookies are made together as a family, my kids are literally waking up at 7 in the morning just to make them. Well, they really must be enjoying it, right?

Homemade Gingerbread Cookies

Traditional recipe from my home country.

Ingredients: 600 g spelt flour, 100 g organic sugar, 200 g honey, 150 g grass-fed butter, 3 organic eggs, 5 tsp of combination of gingerbread spices - I use cinnamon, cardamon, cloves, star anise, 2 tsp baking soda 

Directions

1. Put sugar, honey, spices, butter and baking soda into a bowl and heat in a double boiler until dissolved.

2. Set aside and add flour.

3. Mix with your hands until you get a nice elastic dough.

4. Wrap the dough in a foil or wrap and let rest in the fridge overnight.

5. Before cutting out shapes, let the dough rest at a room temperature for one hour.

6. Bake at 180 C for 10 to 12 minutes.

Traditional Sauekraut Soup

Sauerkraut has been one of the only vegetables available during the cold winter months in my home country. It doesn't come as a surprise that this soup was traditionally eaten during Christmas time. Nourishing, incredibly easy to make and slightly sweet thanks to apples and plums, it is my favorite soup for winter.

Traditional Sauerkraut Soup

Ingredients

4 cups of sauerkraut

1 onion

1 garlic

2 bay leaves

1 apple

3 dried plums

1 tbsp paprika

1 cup of dried mushrooms (re hydrated)

salt and pepper

broth or water

Directions

1. Prepare all ingredients: re hydrate the mushrooms, peel, core and cut the apple.

2. Put everything into a big pot or a pressure cooker, top up with water or broth.

3. Let simmer for an hour.

4. This Traditional Sauerkraut Soup is even better the next two to three days.

Raw Bountiful Cake (Stedrak)

This dessert is made in no time, you don't even have to turn on the oven. All you need is a blender and a freezer. In Slovakia, poppy seeds, walnuts and dried plums had to be on every holiday table. Traditionally, this cake was round with a hollow in the center. Inside, there were seeds of next year's crops as well as honey and garlic. Cake was then cut and every animal received a piece as a symbol for a generous harvest the following year. Don't share this cake with your pets though, or if you do, first, take a bite yourself.

Ingredients

Crust:

2 cups walnut or almond meal

1 cup raisins, soaked in water overnight

Poppy seed filling

1 cup poppy seeds, grind at home

1 cup dried plums, soaked in water overnight

1/2 cup honey

1 tbsp. lemon juice, lemon zest from one lemon

Walnut filling

1 cup walnuts

1/4 cup honey

1/4 cup coconut oil

3 tbsp. lemon juice

Chocolate layer

2 tbsp.coconut oil

2 tbsp. raw cacao

2 tbsp. honey or maple syrup

Directions

1. Blend ingredients for the crust. Use a plate and metal round circle and press the crust on the bottom.

2. Blend the ingredients for the poppy seed filling. Press it on the crust.

3. Blend the ingredients for the walnut filling. Put the cake in the freezer until it sets.

4. Heat coconut oil and honey, stir raw cacao and maple syrup. Drizzle over the cake. Put the cake into freezer. Take the cake out of the freezer about half an hour before serving.

Traditional French Spice Bread

Ingredients

100 grams grass-fed butter (traditionally, salted butter is used, but you can use a non-salted version)

150 ml milk (you can use raw milk or non-dairy milk such as almond milk)

180 grams honey

2 eggs

200 grams flour (I used spelt flour, but you could use gluten-free flour such as rice flour)

2 tsp. baking powder

2 tsp. baking soda

1 tsp.salt

3 tsp. mixed spice - cinnamon, cloves, cardamom)

1 tsp. grated zest from either an orange or a lemon or both

2 whole cloves, 1 whole star anise

Directions

1. Heat the milk with whole cloves, star anise, butter and honey. Do not let boil. Set aside and let cool.

2. Mix the flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, zest, mixed spice. Add eggs and filtered milk.

3. Bake at 180 degrees for an hour or until a toothpick comes out clean. You might want to cover the spice bread the last 20 minutes of baking with aluminium foil as it tends to burn on the top.